Crater Lake does not photograph accurately. Everyone arrives having seen the pictures and is still unprepared for the colour, which is a blue that looks artificial until you are standing in front of it.

Why the lake looks like that

It sits in the collapsed caldera of a volcano, is nearly two thousand feet deep — the deepest in the United States — and has no rivers running into or out of it. It is fed entirely by snow and rain.

That means there is almost no sediment and almost nothing dissolved in it. The water is exceptionally clear, so light penetrates deeply, and the blue that comes back is the only wavelength that returns. The colour is a direct consequence of the purity.

Planning a first visit

Rim Drive is the thirty-three mile road around the caldera, and it is the visit for most people. Allow half a day with stops; the pull-outs each show a different aspect and the light changes constantly.

Check it is open. It is closed by snow for much of the year and opens fully only in summer.

Watchman Peak is the walk to do if you only do one. Under a mile up, and the view back over the lake and Wizard Island is the classic one.

Cleetwood Cove is the only legal access to the water — a steep mile down and a harder mile back. It is also where the boat trips leave from, and the only way to reach Wizard Island.

The boat tour is worth booking if it is running. Seeing the caldera walls from the water changes the sense of scale entirely.

When to go

July through September is when everything is open. Earlier and much is still under snow; later and it closes again.

Early morning gives the best water — the surface is calmest, so the reflection and the colour are at their strongest.

Practical

It is high — over seven thousand feet at the rim. Expect to be more out of breath than usual, drink more water, and take the altitude seriously if you have come from sea level.

Weather changes fast and it is cold at the rim even in August. Bring a layer.

Book accommodation early. In-park lodging is limited and goes months ahead; the nearest towns are a fair drive.

And allow more time than you plan to. Most people intend a quick look and end up staying at the rim far longer than they expected.